Derrumbes is a mezcal atlas — one bottle per state, each made by a local mezcalero with the local agave and the local method — and Oaxaca is the first expression. It’s made in Santiago Matatlán, the mezcal capital, by third-generation agave farmer and maestro mezcalero Javier Mateo and his family: an ensamble of two parts espadín to one part tobalá, the prized wild highland agave, pit-roasted over black oak for a light smokiness, ground by tahona, and wild-fermented with a splash of pulque — the ancient fermented agave sap — as a fermentation aid and water from the Zapotec town of Mitla, then twice-distilled in copper pot stills and rested 60 days in glass before bottling at 48% ABV. Derrumbes describes a round, full-bodied mezcal where light smoke gives way to minerality and delicate fruit. Mezcal Reviews’ drinkers found butterscotch, citrus, orange oil, mint, violet candy, lime, and a warm earth note, calling it tasty and well priced — one wished the tobalá stood out more given it’s a third of the blend, another said it was unremarkable as pure espadín and the tobalá made all the difference. Expect a sweet, lightly ashy nose with fruit, a palate where the two agaves bounce off each other, and a finish with real heat. Honest note: it drinks hot for 48%. For a Mezcal Negroni, an Oaxacan Old Fashioned, or a copita neat, it’s Derrumbes’ home page. Gallo took a stake in the brand in 2024.
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