WINE SPECTATOR 96 POINTS – “A beam of fresh cherry and strawberry permeates this graceful red, driven by a vibrant structure. Flashes of sun-kissed hay, iron and mint add depth as this cruises to a lingering conclusion. Very harmonious, with a chalky sensation on the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2028 through 2050. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.”
KERIN O’KEEFE 96 POINTS – “The 2020 Coste delle Rose is a stunner, starting with its heady aromas of dog rose, lavender, juniper and eucalyptus. Combining finesse and density, the polished palate is delicious, delivering juicy red cherry, strawberry compote, blood orange, grilled sage and star anise alongside tightly knit, velvety tannins. Drink 2028–2035. Abv:14% Kerin O’Keefe February 2024 ©kerinokeefe.com”
The Vajra wineries are family-run labors of love. The original G.D. Vajra winery was founded by Aldo Vajra, with his first release coinciding with the troublesome 1972 vintage. Instead of cutting his losses by abandoning the grapes on the vines, he made the best wine he could and never stopped. Remaining obstinate in his vision of what great Barolo should be, he refused to succumb to the increasing popularity of aging in French oak, especially with new barrels, which he felt would detract from the elegant and pure expression of the Nebbiolo grape. He was well-aware of the modern improvements in the wine cellars, though, and through the years earned a reputation for being “the most modern of the traditionalists and the most traditional of the modernists.”
Aldo and his wife, Milena, along with their three children have continued to improve and grow from that humble first wine. It’s a testament to the character of this family that the small but well-respected winemakers, Luigi and Fiorina Baudana, felt comfortable letting the Vajras take over their estate in 2009, and with it their legacy (no small thing in a region that takes such things so seriously). In keeping with the old ways, the Vajras farm organically, make use of long fermentations during which the skins and juice gently mingle, and age the wines in large Slavonian oak barrels that impart only subtle wood notes.
