Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru aux Combottes 2016 750ml

94-96 The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes comes from a parcel just south of Clos de la Roche that was planted in 1957. It has a very subtle bouquet at first, gradually unfurling to reveal vibrant red berry fruit, fern, iris and bay leaf scents, later just a distant tang of iron rust. The palate is medium-bodied, the one-third whole-bunch fruit beautifully subsumed into the fabric of this Gevrey with a supple, quite fleshy finish belying the backbone underneath. Superb.