Is Piuze’s 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent Les Quatres Chemins even better than its 2019 predecessor? I’m inclined to think so, and to my palate, it’s also his joint-finest wine this year. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon and crisp Anjou pear mingled with notions of iodine and freshly baked bread, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific concentration, racy acids and a long, intensely saline finish.








